It’s the Little Things

The government buildings and mosques are beautiful. You can identify a
mosque by its minaret. As a non-muslim I am not allowed in the Moroccan
mosques by law, because it was one of the few courtesies the French gave Moroccans
after colonization they continue today. The French respected their place of worship,
so actually most places of worship in Morocco are for those devoutly following that religion.
There are three mosques non-muslims can go to, and I hope to be going to 2 of them.  

It’s a Small World

            So, traveling in a big pack of Americans might typically give us away; but today I gave us away even more by wearing a Washington Nationals t-shirt. I was out looking for a sweatshirt at Dicks’ before going abroad, and I found this comfy, red jersey t-shirt on sale that has “Washington Nationals” written on it. I bought it to spice up my unusually neutral clothing choices for the trip, for comfort, and as something that would remind me of home. (It also does not have an offensive name on it).

My friends descending back into the medina after getting
tea on Feb. 1.

            Today while wearing the shirt I ran into three groups of Americans. The first came up to me as I was waiting with friends at the end of the medina to walk with to the Museum of Modern Art. They were a nice couple in Morocco on vacation, and actually from the DC area. We exchanged a few words and realized how small this world truly is.

            The second was by far my favorite. My friends made a wrong turn in the museum and the guard asked me to go find them. So, as I was looking crazy and yelling my friend’s name in a hushed tone these two Americans turned around and saw me in my Nats shirt. They immediately struck up a conversation, because they two were from the DC area; Silver Spring to be exact. Once they found out I was a journalism student the wife was ecstatic to pitch a story idea.

            The couple has been traveling to Morocco on and off for years working with the deaf. The wife has been working with the deaf since the 1970s and has a program that has helped deaf people communicate by translating written language into sign language. They are currently here to work with the government and help improve education for deaf children.

            Hint, hint, nudge, nudge, wink, wink, I think I found an amazing subject for my ISPJ (independent study project in journalism). Or if not that, then a interesting subject for another story. Thankfully I got the wife’s card.

            I was on cloud nine after meeting these people. My mind was racing with all of the possibilities of what story could come out of this, what medium could I use and what could be the best approach as I went through the museum. Then after I was heading down the stairs to leave the museum I ran into another American woman.

            She stopped me on the stairs and immediately asked if I knew what I was wearing. I responded, yes I’m from DC. She seemed shocked that I would wear something like this in a foreign country, but really why shouldn’t I? I explained I’m a student studying here for the semester and I would like something from home. She was from Ohio, so maybe she didn’t get it because they have no professional sports teams…? Though I haven’t been able to go to a game in a while… I was just out enjoying a museum with friends, not trying to take photos at a protest. I had no need to blend in, and truthfully I can’t when I’m with friends. We are loud and boisterous Americans that will break out in laughter and speak in English, those two things already call attention to use. However, as a student I’m excited to make Rabat my home, and maybe feeling comfortable enough to wear that shirt makes it sorta my home already.

Morocco Welcomes You

The Moroccan Museum of Modern Art
has this big thumbs up right in front, it's hard
to miss and right off the main road.

            Really I have felt nothing but kindness from Moroccans since being here. Well maybe except for the occasional cat-call (guys this is never flattering) and when we only ordered tea at a restaurant and the waiter totally thought we were gonna order a meal. However, besides those tiny instances all-around Morocco is a great place with great people.

            One of the first days I was here I was walking with a group of people in the medina as we heard a moped pull up next to us. We slowed to the side to let it pass, and the man riding the moped stopped at me to actually tell me my shoelace was untied. What could be nicer?

            However, we always do feel a little out of place. We are a large group of Americans always laughing and talking in English. Yesterday as we descended down these stairs into a plaza with restaurants we could see people staring, and waiters coming to the podium counting their menus ready flag us into their restaurants. Today as we stood in the museum’s lobby a Moroccan man in a suit was taking photos of us standing there.

We laughed in the uncomfortable moment, but as soon as he started talking to us it clicked. He was the president of the museum, taking photos for their media to show a diverse group of students at the museum. He was interested in who we were and why we were at the museum. After telling we were students from America studying in Rabat for the semester he made it a point to say that we were safe, not going to be killed as he gestured a beheading. Morocco is the real Islam, a religion of peace and we are very welcome to Morocco.

It was an amazing gesture and very nice, however I wish he didn’t feel like it was needed. I would hate to have to say that kind of thing to someone visiting my home so they feel safe. I’m happy to be from a safe place, where you have to take the obvious precautions, but nothing more. From what I have seen Rabat is the same.

The sad fact is that it comes from the bigoted and ignorant remarks people that somehow have influence. There were obviously times I was scared when of the choice I made; the scary truth: fear-mongering tactics work.  However, I quickly put those fears to rest after research into Morocco. Being educated is important; it allows you to push the boundaries.

The plazza we found in the middle of Rabat. It seems like
a nice place to go for a meal.

I’m excited to say that I pushed the boundaries of a typical study abroad. I supposedly went somewhere totally out of my comfort zone. But for now I have my western toilet and modern conveniences. There are even 4G Wi-Fi sticks so you can get Internet; that’s how I’m posting this now. There is overt sexism in the cafe culture, because women don't typically frequent cafes alone, and we could never sit outside; but we are getting the hang of it and finding places for women. I’m sure it will be more of a culture shock when we go to the village in the mountains; but for now I’m happy to say I’m settling in nicely.

Just have to go with the flow. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere other than Rabat.

That One Thing

The park outside the art museum is filled with skateboarders
and friends hanging out, so we decided
to chill here while deciding what to do next on Feb. 6.

            I have tried different foods, smelled different smells and done a lot of things out of the ordinary that I really have enjoyed doing. But, the one thing that bothers me in Rabat is the lack of windows. Right now I’m living in a first floor apartment in the medina and there is only one window in my house. It is small and above the kitchen sink.

            Since the ceilings are so high the window is also high and not at eye-level. It would be a brick wall outside any window we had, but it would be some sort of natural light. Typically a house would be all 3 floors, have a terrace on top and be open all the way down in the middle of the house. However, since my house was turned into apartments it has only the one window.

            It’s a relatively small complaint to have no windows. Just guess I’ll spend more time outside.