Monday, March 28, 2016

The Beni Koulla Commune Experience

Got a flower bouquet from my village host brothers Mourad and Tarik. 
Early one Sunday morning we piled in a van, just barely big enough for us 16 students and our two program directors. I was tired from a long day in Casablanca the Saturday before, but we wanted the burgers everyone was raving about to be our last meal before the village.
Had a great time in Casablanca. Hassan II Mosque is unreal.

We had no idea what to expect; just no showers or western toilets for the week. We were thrilled to begin the 4 and a half hour journey to the unknown. Everything seemed to annoy
me; once we arrived I wanted back in the van.

We met our host families and quickly settled in. I had an 18 year-old host sister and 2 younger host brothers. We ate lunch together. It was my first time in Morocco not being offered a spoon or fork to eat with, so it was a messy experience, but I quickly learned. After leaving the village it was even weird to use a fork.

Later that afternoon some friends and I planned to go for a walk around the commune, but as we passed my little brothers playing soccer we were dragged into the game. I hadn't laughed at all in Morocco as much as I did that afternoon with the boys playing soccer. They were really good; if it had been an Americans versus Moroccans match we would have gotten our asses kicked.

The best way to end the day: A soccer match.
After the match we got called into dinner by my host sister, had tea time and I was so exhausted I couldn't make it to dinner.

The next day we woke up and walked to the closest school -- about 35 minutes away off the side of a very busy main road. We got to teach English that morning to the students. The 2 classrooms were filled to the brim with students and there is only one teacher assigned to each class. The kids break into morning and afternoon shifts for the different classes because there is not enough space or manpower to have the kids in school for the full day.

Teaching English was by far the best part of the week. We got to break down the language barrier by always giving us something to talk about -- aka counting numbers. Teaching allowed us to get to know the kids better, especially the ones from our commune. A few of us turned to each other, knowing why people go teach English abroad.

Recess break at school.
I had brought my rugby ball to school because it was the only ball I had and there are lots of ways to make education fun by throwing a ball around. So my group got to do it and had a blast. The boys I knew from soccer the day before love the activities. The girls seemed more shy, but equally took part. The kids for the later classes even joined in the fun once they got to school . We were sad when we had to go back home for lunch, not being able to return to teach the other kids.

We continued on with the day. When my brothers got home from school they promptly started a soccer game. Tired from the day before and all the events of the morning I was on the side with my friend not really playing soccer. There was a small boy over watching the match as well. We called him over and tried to teach him more English. We eventually taught him to say "I'm number one;" a phrase we begged to hear every time we saw him after that. It was the last thing a kid said to me before I got back in the van at the end of the week.

That week I was also stuck in a rainstorm with 2 of my friends. I fell in mud (twice), my friend's iPhone finally lost its home button, we were offered shelter by 3 amazing women, my friend revealed her fear of chickens and were laughed at by the women and one of my little brothers.

We also went on a hike the day after the first big rainstorm, so it was ridiculously muddy. Then it poured. I fell in the mud about five times and laughed harder and harder every time. It was absolutely ridiculous; towards the end I couldn't stay standing because I was laughing so hard. If you ask any of my friends at school they can tell you of a few times I had trouble staying on my feet.

We had a meeting with a bunch of people from the town. It was mostly our mothers, but they were amazing to talk to. I brought up the question of it only being the boys playing soccer and it ignited an amazing discussion of the gender dynamics in the village. There was one man in the room that was telling us how women were not as strong and too fragile to play with the boys. All the women in the room immediately went crazy. It was nice to see the gender stereotypes challenged in the room.

I gave the ball to Nisreen, the girl in the pink and grey jacket.
It took a little effort to get her to realize I was giving her the
ball, but she eventually took it.
At that point my little brothers were in the room. The questions started with them being asked why the girls didn't play with them. Then they sat around hearing the responses of what they said from everyone. The theme for the rest of our time seemed to be women empowerment; we made it known to the boys we played soccer with and the girls we saw around the village.

On the last day we had a free afternoon and my brothers already had school that morning. Being the ring-leaders they are they started a game of soccer ver early. With the frisbee my friend brought and my rugby ball it turned into a multi-sporting event. Kids joined in the fun as they returned from school.

Girls from the village were helping their mothers get water from the well near the make-shift soccer field. I invited them to come play soccer, but when they refused I enticed them with my rugby ball. Once I got them passing and their faces lit up with a smile. It was amazing to see the girls out there playing; the first time I had seen it all week.

I know in the US that there is a strong correlation between girls playing sports and getting involved with their academic success and confidence. So, I would like to think that this could help them speak up in class more often. Joining rugby at school has given me insane confidence in myself and having that community and friendships back home is part of the reason I'm thriving here. Hopefully giving the girls this ball with help them gain even the smallest fraction of the confidence I found and help these smart girls thrive the way I know they can.

The week in Beni Koulla was one of the most amazing weeks of my life. I would not have traded it for a week of showers and western toilets. I would gladly go back in a heartbeat. After learning so much about Morocco during the past two months it was interesting to see how so many of the social issues came about in the home stay. I was happy that I could do my little part to fight the patriarchy that is so deeply entrenched in Moroccan society.

P.S. I know Spring Rugby is starting up at St. Mikes, so kick some ass ladies! My love is with you from across the ocean!




Sunday, March 20, 2016

Never a dull day

The sunset over Azrou, a town we stayed at in the mountains. The sunset was
absolutely breathtaking and it definitely would have been nice to stay longer.
So, I know I haven't posted in a while. It's not for a lack of trying, or any fun stories. There are plenty. And I have tried to write about them, but couldn't bring myself to put the expirience into words. Riding a camel in the Sahara, getting chased off by moneys in the forest, making many Moroccan friends, winding up in a Ganawa party and visiting multiple cities are just a few of the shenanigans my friends have gotten ourselves into the past few weeks that I haven't posted about. However, telling all of those stories will be saved for a rainy day when I have nothing better to do. Buy me an iced coffee (which I'm severly lacking here.... aka I have to go 3 times a day whenever I'm in Marrakesh or Casablanca the only 2 cities that have Starbucks to get an iced Americano because it's freaking hot here) and I'll tell you some stories.
Fes has the largest medina in Morocco and is set in the
Middle Atlas Mountains.

So instead of telling stories that exoticize Morocco I'm gonna tell you some of what I have come across being here.

1) For every crappy person you meet there are 10 amazing people that will help you and be nice human beings. Especially when people try to help you and there is a language barrier (Hamdullah for everyone putting up with my poor French and shwaya Arabic).
2) I thought I hated the patriarchy before coming here, but since living in a ridiculously patriarchal society I have really come to hate it and will literally say "FUCK THE PATRIARCHY" in the streets. Really having to think twice about what café you go to and getting cat-called like crazy in the street is not fun ever and will start to get on your nerves real quick.
3) The world isn't that big. First, there is a HUGE western influence from the McDonalds to the clothes people wear and everything in between. Second, I have really enjoyed the 4 hour time difference we have had for the past week, because we have not sprung ahead yet. Third, politics matter; I had a meeting where I met some high-up people working for a human rights organization. Of course when I mention I'm from D.C. that brings up politics – and not the "yay Obama" that comes up in everyday conversation – I got asked about Trump. Really there is no way to answer than "Insha'Allah" he will not be president.
A photo posted by Maddie Hughes (@mhughes_9513) on
4) When nothing is convenient it makes you feel 10 times more accomplished. First, I got an internship working in corporate communications; thanks rugby for giving me the experience. Second, I got my absentee ballot and it will be freaking hard to figure out how the hell to print it out and mail it back to the US – insuring it will make it there, which I kind of doubt from how Moroccan bureaucracy goes – BUT I will get it there. Every vote counts, especially when the race is a freaking weird as it has been this year.
5) Just go with the flow and it will all be good; except with awful cab drivers fight them when they try to charge you 50 dirham for 5 blocks.

Here is to living in the moment and going with the crazy flow of what's happening.  Insha'Allah I will return to to all of the places I have been in Morocco, hopefully one day when I can afford the nice things (aka every Amazigh rug and handmade leather bag my heart desires).

Right now we are on our way to a village to stay with families for the week. The Riff mountains are in sight. Beslama civilization.

A photo posted by Maddie Hughes (@mhughes_9513) on