ISPJ: Don't Blink

The view from our kitchen window.

            So, I'm finally on the long-awaited ISPJ period that I essentially worked my way to since stepping foot into the continent. I have to report on and write a feature story that is hopefully pitch-able to a major news outlet. I get to live with a variety of friends and travel around Morocco on my own.

Living: 

We have a gas stove that has to be lit with
a lighter... so I will be eating lots
of fresh veggies and PB&Js.

            So, this is the coolest thing. My friends and I actually found an apartment on our own in Rabat and are gonna live there on our own. The location is perfect in an amazing neighborhood, Hassan. Everything is either walkable or easy to get to via tram. I'm getting my student tram pass later this week to be able to take advantage of it more.

            It's been an adventure already. Friday we moved our stuff in early so that 2 of my best friends I'm living with and I could have our first official night in our apartment before they went on their ways traveling for the first week or two.

            However, I will not be alone because we are the designated transient house for anyone coming to and needing a place in Rabat for our group. The apartment is so big I bet we could fit everyone if needed. Three of our other friends from the program will be living with us the last two weeks of ISPJ after they have traveled for their stories.

            It's nice living in Rabat because I know it really well and already have a few friends. Some of our friends include some guys who go to circus school across the river in Salé. They came over the first night for dinner. We attempted to cook for them, but after being scared of the gas stove we had to ask for their help. It was nice of them to help. Sunday they also came over to teach us to properly use the stove because we still couldn't get it. Our washing machine is currently broken (it had to have happened before we got there) and we have no gas for the hot water heater, so it's going to be a few interesting days until the apartment owner can help us out.

Traveling: 

            So, because it's ISPJ and I don't actually have class I can travel as long as I get stuff done. One of my friends had to be in Casablanca for an event last night. So as a casual Monday I decided why not go; I wanted to get coffee and a burger anyways (Bless Burger is the best burger on this side of the Atlantic). So we left, not booking our hotel till we were on the train because the AirBnb we wanted wasn't available anymore. It looked OK enough for $40 in Casa for the night.

Living with Becca and Oly. When we were in Casablanca 2 weeks ago.

            We rolled up to the hotel and I felt itchy in the lobby. We fought with the receptionist because she didn't see that we had just made the reservation. All we wanted to do was drop off our bags and go to our favorite burger place.

            After getting into the room we saw that it was not cleaned, but the cleaning lady was on the floor, so she should be cleaning it soon. My friend went into he bathroom and the cleaning lady came in the "clean" the room. She made the beds with the same sheets that were already on the beds. What could be more disgusting. The room was already cringe-worthy and that sealed the deal. We called our friends who are living in Casa for ISPJ and asked if we could crash there for the night. Thankfully they welcomed us with open arms.

            All in all I think the lesson learned was to just try to stay with friends first. I'm also going to avoid all budget hotels without reading MULTIPLE reviews first. Hostels and AirBnbs are probably the way to go.

Other Shenanigans: 

            So, as I mentioned we are friends with some acrobats, so that just always makes for good times and laughter. My American friends and I have gotten to the point where we just look at each other and laugh at our situation. We met them a while back when they were performing in front of Parliament. If I have learned anything in Morocco it's rule of not talking to strangers is absolute bullshit, because hey look who you can become friends with.

            I have talked to protestors in the streets and random people all over the place. Being i. Casa for less than 24 hours I met some really cool people. The guy who spoke impeccable English in a cab we took is actually an editor and journalist for the Moroccan paper Telquel, which is one of the free-est papers in Morocco.

            The manager at Starbucks in Casa is actually an American Moroccan that lived in DC. He worked at the Starbucks in DuPont Circle up until 3 years ago. I had an interesting conversation about how Starbucks is expanding in Morocco. (Hopefully  when I come back to Rabat one day I'll be able to get an iced coffee.) He also advised me to get a Cold Brew instead of an Iced Americano, which is actually my favorite in America, it's just so new in Morocco they didn't have it the first time I went to a Starbucks in Marrakech. Then he gave my friend and I a voucher for a free Cold Brew.

The Count-Down is On: 

Starbucks on the train back to Rabat.

            It being ISPJ means that our time is coming to an end. The first two months flew by. Now with only 5 and 1/2 weeks left it's time to really make things count. Last night after the event my friend and I attended we were stranded in a café by the cold rain. We ended up talking about what it's gonna mean to go home. Sad thought.

            I love being here and able to travel and do tons of crazy things. We might be bound to Morocco, because according to our program we can't leave the country. However, the opportunities are endless. I'm going to Marrakesh for a third time this weekend because it's my favorite city and I know there is still a ton left to explore. I physically won't be able to do everything I want while I'm in Morocco. I want to go to Essaouira, Agadir and Tangier; I'm hoping to make it to at least one of those.

            And after I know I get three more weeks of travel, but it won't be the same. I won't have the same friends I've gotten so close to. And it won't be in Morocco, a place I have absolutely fallen in love with and have only gotten more confused and intrigued by the more I'm learning about it.

The Beni Koulla Commune Experience

Got a flower bouquet from my village host brothers Mourad and Tarik. 

Early one Sunday morning we piled in a van, just barely big enough for us 16 students and our two program directors. I was tired from a long day in Casablanca the Saturday before, but we wanted the burgers everyone was raving about to be our last meal before the village.

Had a great time in Casablanca. Hassan II Mosque is unreal.

We had no idea what to expect; just no showers or western toilets for the week. We were thrilled to begin the 4 and a half hour journey to the unknown. Everything seemed to annoy
me; once we arrived I wanted back in the van.

We met our host families and quickly settled in. I had an 18 year-old host sister and 2 younger host brothers. We ate lunch together. It was my first time in Morocco not being offered a spoon or fork to eat with, so it was a messy experience, but I quickly learned. After leaving the village it was even weird to use a fork.

Later that afternoon some friends and I planned to go for a walk around the commune, but as we passed my little brothers playing soccer we were dragged into the game. I hadn't laughed at all in Morocco as much as I did that afternoon with the boys playing soccer. They were really good; if it had been an Americans versus Moroccans match we would have gotten our asses kicked.

The best way to end the day: A soccer match.

After the match we got called into dinner by my host sister, had tea time and I was so exhausted I couldn't make it to dinner.

The next day we woke up and walked to the closest school -- about 35 minutes away off the side of a very busy main road. We got to teach English that morning to the students. The 2 classrooms were filled to the brim with students and there is only one teacher assigned to each class. The kids break into morning and afternoon shifts for the different classes because there is not enough space or manpower to have the kids in school for the full day.

Teaching English was by far the best part of the week. We got to break down the language barrier by always giving us something to talk about -- aka counting numbers. Teaching allowed us to get to know the kids better, especially the ones from our commune. A few of us turned to each other, knowing why people go teach English abroad.

Recess break at school.

I had brought my rugby ball to school because it was the only ball I had and there are lots of ways to make education fun by throwing a ball around. So my group got to do it and had a blast. The boys I knew from soccer the day before love the activities. The girls seemed more shy, but equally took part. The kids for the later classes even joined in the fun once they got to school . We were sad when we had to go back home for lunch, not being able to return to teach the other kids.

We continued on with the day. When my brothers got home from school they promptly started a soccer game. Tired from the day before and all the events of the morning I was on the side with my friend not really playing soccer. There was a small boy over watching the match as well. We called him over and tried to teach him more English. We eventually taught him to say "I'm number one;" a phrase we begged to hear every time we saw him after that. It was the last thing a kid said to me before I got back in the van at the end of the week.

That week I was also stuck in a rainstorm with 2 of my friends. I fell in mud (twice), my friend's iPhone finally lost its home button, we were offered shelter by 3 amazing women, my friend revealed her fear of chickens and were laughed at by the women and one of my little brothers.

We also went on a hike the day after the first big rainstorm, so it was ridiculously muddy. Then it poured. I fell in the mud about five times and laughed harder and harder every time. It was absolutely ridiculous; towards the end I couldn't stay standing because I was laughing so hard. If you ask any of my friends at school they can tell you of a few times I had trouble staying on my feet.

We had a meeting with a bunch of people from the town. It was mostly our mothers, but they were amazing to talk to. I brought up the question of it only being the boys playing soccer and it ignited an amazing discussion of the gender dynamics in the village. There was one man in the room that was telling us how women were not as strong and too fragile to play with the boys. All the women in the room immediately went crazy. It was nice to see the gender stereotypes challenged in the room.

I gave the ball to Nisreen, the girl in the pink and grey jacket.
It took a little effort to get her to realize I was giving her the
ball, but she eventually took it.

At that point my little brothers were in the room. The questions started with them being asked why the girls didn't play with them. Then they sat around hearing the responses of what they said from everyone. The theme for the rest of our time seemed to be women empowerment; we made it known to the boys we played soccer with and the girls we saw around the village.

On the last day we had a free afternoon and my brothers already had school that morning. Being the ring-leaders they are they started a game of soccer ver early. With the frisbee my friend brought and my rugby ball it turned into a multi-sporting event. Kids joined in the fun as they returned from school.

Girls from the village were helping their mothers get water from the well near the make-shift soccer field. I invited them to come play soccer, but when they refused I enticed them with my rugby ball. Once I got them passing and their faces lit up with a smile. It was amazing to see the girls out there playing; the first time I had seen it all week.

I know in the US that there is a strong correlation between girls playing sports and getting involved with their academic success and confidence. So, I would like to think that this could help them speak up in class more often. Joining rugby at school has given me insane confidence in myself and having that community and friendships back home is part of the reason I'm thriving here. Hopefully giving the girls this ball with help them gain even the smallest fraction of the confidence I found and help these smart girls thrive the way I know they can.

The week in Beni Koulla was one of the most amazing weeks of my life. I would not have traded it for a week of showers and western toilets. I would gladly go back in a heartbeat. After learning so much about Morocco during the past two months it was interesting to see how so many of the social issues came about in the home stay. I was happy that I could do my little part to fight the patriarchy that is so deeply entrenched in Moroccan society.

P.S. I know Spring Rugby is starting up at St. Mikes, so kick some ass ladies! My love is with you from across the ocean!

Never a dull day

The sunset over Azrou, a town we stayed at in the mountains. The sunset was
absolutely breathtaking and it definitely would have been nice to stay longer.

So, I know I haven't posted in a while. It's not for a lack of trying, or any fun stories. There are plenty. And I have tried to write about them, but couldn't bring myself to put the expirience into words. Riding a camel in the Sahara, getting chased off by moneys in the forest, making many Moroccan friends, winding up in a Ganawa party and visiting multiple cities are just a few of the shenanigans my friends have gotten ourselves into the past few weeks that I haven't posted about. However, telling all of those stories will be saved for a rainy day when I have nothing better to do. Buy me an iced coffee (which I'm severly lacking here.... aka I have to go 3 times a day whenever I'm in Marrakesh or Casablanca the only 2 cities that have Starbucks to get an iced Americano because it's freaking hot here) and I'll tell you some stories.

Fes has the largest medina in Morocco and is set in the
Middle Atlas Mountains.

So instead of telling stories that exoticize Morocco I'm gonna tell you some of what I have come across being here.

1) For every crappy person you meet there are 10 amazing people that will help you and be nice human beings. Especially when people try to help you and there is a language barrier (Hamdullah for everyone putting up with my poor French and shwaya Arabic).
2) I thought I hated the patriarchy before coming here, but since living in a ridiculously patriarchal society I have really come to hate it and will literally say "FUCK THE PATRIARCHY" in the streets. Really having to think twice about what café you go to and getting cat-called like crazy in the street is not fun ever and will start to get on your nerves real quick.
3) The world isn't that big. First, there is a HUGE western influence from the McDonalds to the clothes people wear and everything in between. Second, I have really enjoyed the 4 hour time difference we have had for the past week, because we have not sprung ahead yet. Third, politics matter; I had a meeting where I met some high-up people working for a human rights organization. Of course when I mention I'm from D.C. that brings up politics – and not the "yay Obama" that comes up in everyday conversation – I got asked about Trump. Really there is no way to answer than "Insha'Allah" he will not be president.

I'll find the snowy mountains anywhere I go #Morocco #StudyAbroad #highatlas

A photo posted by Maddie Hughes (@mhughes_9513) on Mar 4, 2016 at 12:28am PST

4) When nothing is convenient it makes you feel 10 times more accomplished. First, I got an internship working in corporate communications; thanks rugby for giving me the experience. Second, I got my absentee ballot and it will be freaking hard to figure out how the hell to print it out and mail it back to the US – insuring it will make it there, which I kind of doubt from how Moroccan bureaucracy goes – BUT I will get it there. Every vote counts, especially when the race is a freaking weird as it has been this year.

5) Just go with the flow and it will all be good; except with awful cab drivers fight them when they try to charge you 50 dirham for 5 blocks.

Here is to living in the moment and going with the crazy flow of what's happening.  Insha'Allah I will return to to all of the places I have been in Morocco, hopefully one day when I can afford the nice things (aka every Amazigh rug and handmade leather bag my heart desires).

Right now we are on our way to a village to stay with families for the week. The Riff mountains are in sight. Beslama civilization.

When the desert meets the mountains #marrakech #Morocco #StudyAbroad

A photo posted by Maddie Hughes (@mhughes_9513) on Feb 27, 2016 at 7:06am PST